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Single-Track, The Untold Thrill

Posted on 25 June 2008 by ryan

Like a gymnast on a balance beam you scream down the narrow single-track.  Thick brush and small trees line the sides of your pathway of fate.  You struggle to maintain your balance as you reach a near uncontrollable speed.  Your emotions twitching from pure exhilaration to complete panic and fear.

If you’ve ever experienced mountainboarding a single-track you know that there is only so much to do to control your ride.  As soon as you drop in you are at the mercy of the track.  If it drops steep, so do you.  If it curves hard to the left, then you better do the same.  If a boulder or a log covers a portion of the track then you better figure something out quick.

There is little that can be offered in terms of advise to those mountainboarding single-tracks.  Brakes are obviously helpful, but if you are looking to actually “ride” the track, then they’re out of the question.  This lack of options is what attracts many of the riders of the forbidden single-track. 

Speed management is one of the biggest obstacles you’ll face.   The option to carve is out the window on most single-tracks, but depending on your surrounding terrain you might be able to use it.  If the track is carved into the ground, you might be able to rub the edges to slow your descent.  Brush or tall grass can be used to slow yourself by simply running your arms through it to provide drag.  Watch out for stationary objects if you try this; you don’t want to wrap your arm around a tree.

If after looking at the severe lack of options you still decide to mountainboard a single-track, then buckle your helmet and get ready for a rush. Stay focused or you’ll lose your balance and tweak out.  Mountainboarding is always full of split-second decisions, single-tracks just make it a smaller split-second. Keep your eye on that track, it’s the key to your fate- good or bad. 

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Basic First Aid for Mountainboarders- Part 3 of 3

Posted on 16 May 2008 by ryan

During this three part series, we’ve covered the basics on fractures, road rash, and now concussions. Concussions are often referred to as Mild Traumatic Brain Injury (MTBI). While there are different levels of severity, even the mildest of concussions should be avoided. Not only is your brain getting beat up each time, you also become more vulnerable to further brain injury with each repeated concussion.

Inside the skull the brain is surrounded by what is called “cerebrospinal fluid.” This fluid acts as a cushion to protect the brain from low levels of trauma. It has it’s limits however, and if those limits are crossed the brain can be concuss.pngdamaged. These limits can be crossed even without a direct blow to the head. If the body comes to a sudden and forceful stop, the brain might still get shook up regardless of where the impact occurred.

Symptoms vary from person to person. They can also vary depending on the severity of the injury. Some of the most common symptoms for mild concussions (though the same symptoms can be present in all levels of concussions) include: headache, nausea and sometimes vomiting, dizziness, and confusion. Momentary loss of consciousness sometimes occurs, along with that “whoa-what happened feeling.”

One should pay careful attention to his or her symptoms if a concussion is suspected. Regardless of the severity, you’ll need to rest. Your body is telling you through these symptoms that it’s extra fragile and that you need to take it easy. In most cases, more mountainboarding, is not the best idea.

More severe concussions can include symptoms such as these: loss of consciousness for over a couple minutes, waking up and then passing out again, an intense “I want to die” headache, your buddy saying, “dude, you hit really hard, I thought you died,” blurred or doubled vision, prolonged amnesia (you can’t remember what happened). The list goes on, the key is if you get up (or don’t get up), and you think to yourself, “Wow, I feel really messed up,” then you probably need to get some professional help.

If it is someone other than yourself that is down for the count, you can help my looking for certain symptoms that the victim won’t be aware of. If the guy is moving slowly, confused or kind of dazed, if he keeps repeating things even after receiving the answer, if his pupils aren’t equal (one is big and the other is small), basically if the guy is simply “not right,” then get him help. Keeping the person awake, contrary to popular belief is not necessary, all though it does make it easier to assess symptoms and vomit without choking.

Also a person who has been out cold for more than a couple of minutes shouldn’t be moved. Further injury could be caused and medical help should be called for as soon as possible.

As mentioned before, even the most mild concussion should be treated with care. Pay attention to the symptoms. Even if you feel okay, if your symptoms worsen you should get checked out my a professional.

So what’s the good news? The good news is that a great deal of mountainboadrd related concussions can be prevented by one simple piece of gear: your helmet. That cerebo-whatever fluid can only do so much. WEAR YOUR HELMET and make sure it fits, it can save your life, or at very least save you from a throbbing headache.

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Use What You Got

Posted on 13 May 2008 by ryan

Our more primitive ancestors quickly became accustomed to using what they had around them in order to survive. Whether it was smashing dinner with a club made of mammoth bone, or huddling in a cave to stay out of the storm, they improvised with what was currently available and stayed alive, some of them anyway.bones.jpg

As mountainboarders, we can learn from our ancient cave brothers and embrace this same instinctive behavior. Instead of smashing dinner however, we use it to ride. We use it to turn our line of descent into a beautiful piece of mountainboarding art, sometimes even a masterpiece.

As we ride, we not only look to throw down style points, but we look to survive the ride and avoid injury. Can we do both at once? You bet we can, and that’s what it’s all about. As beginners we might have bailed off every five meters, or powerslide in the middle of what would have been an awesome ride if we could only handle the speed. Regardless of skill level, speed needs to be controlled, though it doesn’t require us to bail or powerslide every five meters.

This is where we harness our inner instincts and we use what we have around us to control our speed and to create our mountainboarding masterpiece. Use of terrain is key to this. A soft patch of dirt or sand, some tall grass, even a rocky, gravely section will slow you down to some extent. Incorporate your own personal style into this and slowing down can even become part of your art work.

Say you’re picking up some tear-streaking speed and you don’t know what’s around the next corner. You want to slow your rate of descent without messing up what has been an epic ride so far. Instead of coming to a stop or bailing out, you see a patch of loose dirt on the bank to your left. You carve toward it and as you reach it you carve hard back to the right throwing dust into the air. Now, ahead of you is a steep embankment that marks the edge of the trail, you slash it like a curling wave and continue downward. Then, just as you reach your mystery corner you throw down what appears to be a powerslide, but you force it into a 180 ground speed and take the corner riding fakie (rear foot forward).

Any onlooker would be stoked by the scene despite the many times you slowed your speed. Your methods of slowing down were so saturated with style that few would even realize that you were trying to gain control of your mountainboard. The loose dirt you threw into the air absorbed a portion of your speed. The embankment, due to the upward angle as well as the slash, took another chunk of your speed. Then, when you reached your corner of uncertainty and wanted to kill even more speed, your 180 ground spin consumed enough of your momentum to make you feel comfortable facing the unknown. Best of all, it all looked and felt awesome.

Use your terrain. Use what you got. Create your masterpiece.

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“Mixing it Up”

Posted on 08 May 2008 by ryan

1st33.jpgI stood atop a windy, Alaskan ridge with my gear strapped on and my mountainboard under my arm. I looked down into the valley below attempting to spot a nice line of decent. The moss-covered terrain was steep and lumpy. Large boulders, once carried by glaciers, now lay scattered about on the mountain side. The view was such a contrast from the coastal firebreak roads of Southern California where I had been mountainboarding for the past three years.

I struggled that day to maintain control of my board. The place seemed strange and foreign. Techniques that worked on the dirt firebreaks, failed miserably on the lumpy moss.

Mountainboard experiences like this one can go two ways. First, the rider can find the new terrain frustrating and choose to only ride the type of terrain that he or she is familiar with. Second, the rider can accept the challenge and learn how to ride it. While neither of these approaches are wrong, the second provides a valuable learning experience.

While many of us have a favorite terrain to ride, “mixing it up,” can greatly improve your skill as a rider. You will become more versatile, and your creativity will improve. Even if you go right back to your favorite spot, you’ll still find that the lessons learned improved your riding in some way. The basic principle here is experience.

A simple example of this is sand patches. Let’s say you’re out mountainboarding a hard dirt road and you’ve never hit a sand patch before, and then on this day, you do. You haven’t learned that your wheels will sink quickly into the sand. You might not lower your stance and you won’t know how to prepare for the sudden jolt that you’ll soon feel as your speed drops suddenly. Most likely, you’ll get tossed forward off your mountainboard and thereby learn a little about how to ride over sand patches. Next time you’ll be ready, you’ll be experienced.

So if you want to improve your riding, I suggest finding a place to mountianboard that forces you to learn a new terrain. Don’t freak out if you can’t tear it up like you normally do. You’re expanding your element, and that requires some work. Have fun.

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Basic First Aid for Mountainboarders- part 2 of 3

Posted on 07 May 2008 by ryan

Last week we talked about fractures, this week we will discuss one of the most common injuries in the sport of mountainboarding, “road rash.” At first it doesn’t seem too bad, it gives you something to show off- a nice visual aid to go with your post-ride story. Then it starts to get miserable. Scabs, restless nights, ooze, and a long healing process.

So what do you do? How do you best treat it for the quickest recovery?

Before you can do anything, you need to equip yourself (preferably before the you wreck):

  • Bottle of water

  • Wash cloth

  • A mild antibacterial liquid soap

  • Antibiotic Ointment (e.g. Neosporin)

  • Non-stick gauze pads

  • Self adhering gauze wrap

The first thing you want to do after the wreck is inspect the injury. There are different types of road rash, some more serious than others. If you’ve completely peeled away the skin layer and you feel like you’re in science class when you look at it, then you probably need professional medical attention. The skin can’t heal if too much of the underneath stuff is messed up, or missing.

On the other hand, sometimes road rash effects only a very thin layer of the surface of the skin. These types need hardly any attention at all. Just keep them clean and dry and they heal themselves.

The road rash we will discuss is the kind that fall between the two we just mentioned. These are the kind that sting, throb, and ooze. The following steps are for this kind of injury:

  1. Clean the area. If nothing else is done at the crash site, you should at least clean the area. This is done with water, a wash cloth, and mild antibiotic liquid soap (most sporting goods stores sell small empty containers that can easily be filled with soap and packed away). Avoid using hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or anything like that as they’ve been found to mess with the healing process. Scrubbing too hard will also make things worse. If you’re not able to clean away dirt and debris with gentle washing, you can soak the area until it is soft enough to work with.

  2. Once clean, pat the area dry.

  3. Apply antibiotic ointment (e.g. Neosporin).

  4. Cover the area with a non-stick gauze pad. If you’re gauze pad is not a non-stick type, you’ll regret it later.

  5. With a self adhering gauze, wrap the area (some areas are not able to hold a wrap, like the back for example. The non-stick gauze pad will have to do for these areas). The wrap will help to secure and protect the gauze pad so it can do its job.

A few last words…

The road rash is an injury that requires daily maintenance. Your goal is to keep the wound moist, covered, and clean. Only the lightest of skin abrasions should be left to scab and “heal on their own.” When they are deeper, we want to avoid the scabbing process. Scabs tend to crack and they don’t allow enough oxygen to pass through for proper healing.

Keeping the area moist helps to prevent the scabbing process. Each day you need to remove the dressing, clean the area with soap and water, and remove any slimy film (the beginning of scab formation). Then apply the antibiotic ointment (e.g. Neosporin) and a new dressing as you did before. Within a week or two you should start seeing a healthy pink color and the oozing should be done. After this point, covering becomes optional.

So now that you’re a pro at treating road rash, go out and tear up the hill side. If you’re lucky you’ll get to practice what you’ve learned.

 

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Post-Ride Maintenance

Posted on 01 May 2008 by ryan

one.jpgMountainboards take quite a beating and keep rolling. After a long day of riding, it’s not unusual for your board to be jammed with dirt, mud, grass, and whatever else you thrashed that day. Post-ride maintenance is an important habit to develop. Not only does it keep your board running smoother for longer, it also helps to prevent problems on the mountain when you might not be prepared to deal with it.

The level of maintenance you do depends on many factors: how hard you rode, what you rode on, if water was involved, if you live in a dry or wet place, and many more. I do most of my riding in coastal areas, so I have to deal with rust issues more than some riders. Typically I do the post-ride maintenance described below after each day of riding, then once a month or sometimes every other month, I’ll do some deeper mountainboard maintenance work.

The following maintenance steps are for an MBS mountainboard. Some differences might exist for other types of mountainboards.

one.jpg1. First thing I do after inspecting my mountianboard for any obvious damage is assemble my tools: a rag, a toothbrush of some sort, tool (what ever you need to remove your wheels, and tighten the hardware on your trucks and bindings), water, and or Tri-Flow, or anything that claims to penetrate, clean, fight rust, and lubricate.

2. Remove wheels.three.jpg

3. Wipe wheel bearing with rag and brush edges with toothbrush.

4. Squirt a small amount of WD-40 on a rag and wipe wheel bearing, break up any rust with toothbrush, then dry with rag.

5. Squirt with WD-40 each of the hub screws, then dry with rag.

6. Squirt with WD-40 each of the axle nuts, then dry with rag.five.jpg

7. Set wheels aside.

8. Clean axles, using rag and WD-40, then dry with rag.

9. Wipe off any dirt from kingpin, kingpin nut, and kingpin bearings (both sides of truck), the same way you did for the wheel bearings.

10. Squirt each of these parts with WD-40 including the space between the metal and the plastic parts of the truck, then dry with rag.six.jpg

11. If mountainboard has been squeaking a lot, squirt a small amount of WD-40 between the trucks and the deck. This sometimes does the trick.

12. Pour water on the rag and wipe clean the deck, then dry. This isn’t necessary but I do it as a way of bonding with my mountainboard. Take care of your board and it’ll take care of you.

13. Put wheels back on.

14. Tighten all hardware on bindings, and trucks.

Regular maintenance will keep your board happy. Don’t dread it. It’s a time to bond with your mountainboard and reflect on the ride.

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Basic First Aid for Mountainboarders- Part 1 of 3

Posted on 29 April 2008 by ryan

Bumps, bruises, maybe a little blood; all good indicators of a great day of mountainboarding. Seeing a fellow rider get up after a huge spill and continue riding is a normal thing. We step into the bindings each time knowing that injury might await. Some injuries, however, need to be taken care of more immediately in order to prevent further damage. Knowing some basic first aid can help to keep you riding.

Fractures are bad news. There are different kinds of fractures. There are closed fractures, where the bone is fractured under the skin, and there are open fractures, where the bone had broken through the skin and is sticking out. Both need to be treated in order to prevent further injury.

It’s harder to tell if you have a closed fracture than it is for an open fracture (for obvious reasons). Some of the signs to look for are the following:

  • It hurts when you move the injured part.
  • You can’t move the injured part.
  • The injured part looks deformed.
  • Swelling or discoloration of the injured part.

If ever you’re in doubt, treat it as a fracture. Any time that a fracture is suspected, you have to exercises extreme care. The ends of broken bones are sharp and movement can cut tissue and blood vessels. If you are in a location where you can get a medical professional on the scene, do it, and avoid moving the injured person if possible. The following instruction is for those instances where you are not so lucky.

The key to treating a fracture is to hold it in place so it doesn’t move around while the person is taken to a professional. As mentioned before, movement of a fracture will only cause more injury. A splint is what is commonly used to hold the injured part still.

A splint can be anything that will hold its shape, just use what you have around you, your mountainboard if you have to. Whatever you choose to use, it should be secured in several places above and below the break. You want the splint to be secure and comfortable. Pad the inside of the splint if possible and never tie it so tight that circulation is lost.

If the fracture is an open fracture, it should still be dealt with in the same manner. With this type of fracture you will also need to treat the wound. Apply pressure to stop the bleeding and cover with a clean bandage (pressure should be applied with care in order to keep the bone from cutting more tissue).

The most important thing for a rider with any kind of fracture is to get professional medical attention. The sooner the better. Never try to reset a broken limb like they do in the movies. Sometimes the limb will look so unnatural that you will want to move it ‘back to normal.’ DO NOT MOVE IT! Let the pros do that part.

Above all, once your fixed, grab your mountainboard and go make up for lost time.

Check back next week for Part 2 of Basic First Aid for Mountainboarders.

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Bullet-Proof Tubes

Posted on 17 April 2008 by ryan

If you ride in a dry area , there’s a good chance that you’ve had a few run-ins with nature’s tube stabbers. They come in many forms but the bottom line is that prevention is key unless you want to spend your day patching flats or walking home.

There’s a few things you can do to help “bullet-proof” your tubes. Keep in mind that if weight is an issue, then patches and spare tubes may be your only option; but is your main concern is tearing up the mountain without it tearing up you, then read on.desert.jpg

Goop. The green, slimy goop that you squirt into your tubes provides a fairly durable ’scab’ to seal small holes. This mysterious substance is further covered in the article, “Lessons Learned From Mountain Biking.”

Another way to armor your tubes is to use “tire skins.” You can find these at most bike shops. They’re simply a layer of material that is added to the inside of you tires to provide extra protection against flats. The skins are made for bike tires so you’ll have to cut them to size. This same “extra layer” concept was suggested my MBS, only instead of skins, they suggest using an old tube. To do this you cut the inner portion of the tube (like gutting a fish), and then you inflate your good tube inside the old one.

The final “bullet-proof tube” tip, and my personal favorite, is The Combo. Combining multiple forms of defense can really increase your tube’s strength, although I would suggest avoiding the use of both skins and the “gutted tube,” as this gives the tire a lot to hold.

So there it is, yet another hurdle that we as riders can leap over. Terrain can’t stop us. The very thought is worth laughing about. So reinforce your tubes and join the laughter.

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Patch That Flat

Posted on 15 April 2008 by ryan

Getting tossed off your mountain board into a cactus or sticker bush is rarely a positive experience. Even worse, however, is when your board suffers cactus5.jpgsimilar injuries. All it takes is one tiny little thorn to puncture your tube and your ride is over. Patch kits are lifesavers on days like this.

Most patch kits are very small, making them extremely convenient to carry. Unless you enjoy walking down what you could be riding, then keep a kit in your pack or your pocket; it could save your ride.

There’s two different types of kits, with and without glue. Either one will work although the glue-less is more simple and therefore better for those of us who’ve cracked more than our share of helmets. All kits include patches, a scuffer of some sort, and glue (if required).

Here’s the basic steps:

1. Remove the tube.

2. Run your fingers through the inside of the tube to assure that it’s free of stickers or thorns.

3. Fill the tube with air and find all the holes (it helps if you can mark them somehow). Also, finding the holes is easier if you submerge the tube in water (if its available) and watch for bubbles.

4. Clean the area of each hole with water, spit, or whatever you have to make a clean surface.

5. Use the scuffer to scratch the area where the patch will be placed. This will help the patch stick better.

6. If your using a kit with glue, place a small amount of glue on THE TUBE (not the patch) and smear it evenly over the area with your finger. Now let it dry until it’s tacky- this is important, the patch will not stick well if the glue is wet.

7. Now your ready for the patch, each kit is different but most have a plastic piece that will need to be removed. Glue-less patches always have a plastic piece attached to the sticky side.

8. Carefully place the patch over the hole. Apply pressure to the center of the patch first, then smooth out the rest from the inside out to prevent air bubbles.

Once all holes have been patched correctly, the tube should hold air again and you can continue riding. No one wants to make the disgraceful walk downhill when they could be riding.

For more tips on preventing flats, check out “Bullet-proof Tubes”

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Your First Board

Posted on 02 April 2008 by ryan

The addiction has begun. For one reason or another, you have stumbled upon the sport of mountainboarding and you’re hooked. The very smell of dirt fills you with excitement. You find yourself spotting potential riding spots everywhere you go. Even your daydreams send an anxious dose of adrenaline through your body. You want to ride. Your have to ride. But you still need a board.

When looking for your first board there are two main determining factors. Your weight and your riding style. Although there are other factors, such as brand and price, these have more to do with personal preference or what’s in your wallet.

Weight is easy. Are you a light or heavy rider? If you’re a lighter rider, you’ll need a softer deck. If you’re a heavy rider, you’ll need a stiffer deck. Most board companies provide specific information on which board is right for you according to your weight. If you ride a board that is too soft or too stiff, you’ll find you either bottom out all the time or you can’t get the board to respond or “snap.”

Riding style is the next factor. There are four main styles: freestyle, freeride, boardercross, and kite. Although any mountainboard can be used for any style, the more serious you are about a specific style, the more you will want the right tool for the job.

Freestyle is all about getting air and doing tricks. For this you will want a smaller, lighter board. This doesn’t mean you get a board made for a lighter rider. Boards are made light by the materials used for the deck, trucks, and even the hubs and tires. Your board stiffness, depending on how much air you are going for, will need to be high in order to support your landings without bottoming out. Too stiff, however, will take away from the pop you need to leave the ground.

Freeride is about riding the whole mountain, and attacking various terrain. Boards for this style have to be tough and heavy. The deck should be stiff enough to support cliff drops and extreme terrain. Some companies make 9 inch wheels for freeriders. Bigger wheels provides more clearance which means you keep riding instead of getting tossed. Some boards include a handbrake that allows for steeper rides or single tracks (especially beneficial to the beginner).

Boardercross requires a light and very maneuverable ride. Pay special attention to deck stiffness. Your board needs to be able to respond exactly when you need it to. This will depend on your weight and how aggressively you ride. The harder you ride, the stiffer your deck should be.

The last style is kite. If you plan to ride the winds, you will need a light board with a soft deck. You’ll never leave the ground if your board weighs too much. Every ounce you can shave off counts.

By considering both weight and riding style, you’ll be able to get a board that will let you ride how and what you want. As was mentioned before, most companies make an effort to point out which board you need according to these factors. That way you can find what you need to feed your new addiction. Good luck.

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