What started out as an in-your-face beginners’ training manual, has exploded into much more than that. “23 Sessions Later, The Freeriders Guide to Mountainboarding” (The revised editon of “Beginner to Thrasher in 23 Sessions”), takes freeride mountainboarding by the horns, disects its most essential elements, and lays them out into 23 intense training sessions that you do at your own pace. Beginner or not, these 23 sessions will help you improve your ride.

“23 Sessions Later” is written by Ryan Saunders, Cheif Editor and long time writer for MountainBoard.net. In each of the 23 Session, Ryan presents the training objective, gear required, and information on the ideal location (terrain material, level of steepness…). Then using a focus-based, goal oriented approach, he walks you through the training using his usual entertaining approach you’ve seen in his articles.

Many riders have already discovered the benefits of applying “23 Sessions Later” to their riding. Some have been beginners who have been able to tear through obstacles that normally halt the average newbie. Others have been more advanced riders who decided to give the training a try, it is because of their success with the program that the title has been changed. No longer is the word “beginner” even mentioned in the title, that is because of the nature of this training. It will transform your riding regardless of your skill level. All you have to do is be willing to train.

Aside from the new title, this edition is illustrated wtih photos graciously contributed by Pro Riders: Jason Lee (MBS) , Tony Dogga, and Akoni Kama. “23 Sessions Later” is in a digital format (ebook), so you can download it directly to your computer and start training today. Give it a chance, you wont regret it!

What Do Other Riders Think About It?
“I wish this resource had been available when I started to mountainboard. I learned through a combination of trial and error, poor articles on the net and barely comprehensible videos on Youtube. If I did not have a background in snowboarding I think I would have struggled. This e-book takes you from the very basics of falling correctly,maintenance and basic turns up to multi-terrain trips to the mountain through a series of incremental skill practices.”
-Neil Matthews: Creator and former owner of Mountainboard.net

“I bought the book because of a lack of ‘how to’ mountainboard books. I have a number of mountainboard DVD’s but few of them provide much in the way of help and tips. I recently enrolled in a mountainboard course which I found really useful and no amount of DVD’s or books can replace practice, but I take your book with me and can put your advice into practice. Incidentally, I have laminated each page of the book, which protects it from the elements…I found it very useful and it is an essential piece of kit in my board bag.”
-Tony: Mountainboarder currently in “Trasher Training.”

Only 9.95 US Dollars

There are times when a day of riding seems to soak deep into the soul. The kind of soaking that causes everything to flow. It’s not always the flow that we expected or planned, but still it seems to sync all the feelings of the day into one epically fluid ride. That is a good day.

It’s days like these that we feel as though our mountainboard is an extension of our own body; as much a part of us as an arm or leg. While these are awesome moments in mountainboarding, we still need to pay attention to the parts of us that really are attached.

The feet are what joins rider and board. In order to take care of that vital part of the body, mountainboarders have to pay attention to the kind of footwear they use. There are a few factors that we face when picking what type of shoe to stick our foot in. Ankle support, availability, and comfort are among these factors.

The ankles can take a beating at times, especially for newbies who have a tendency to step off their board when they loose control. But newbie or not, the ankles are always under a lot of stress in any active sport or activity. So what can you do? Wear a shoe with high supportive ankles that fits well, or you can wear any shoe and throw on an ankle brace.

Personally, I’d rather upgrade my helmet or buy some spare tubes before I spend money on mountainboard specific shoes. For those of you like me, who prefer to use what we have rather than bust open the wallet, we simply have to check out our old shoes and see what works best. If all you have is an old pair of Sunday church shoes however, you may want to look for an alternative.

Last but definitely not least, comfort. You want to wear a shoe that isn’t going to tear your foot to pieces on a long day of riding. At the same time, you don’t want to get too comfortable and sport a pair of fluffy slippers shaped like kittens. Not to loose, not to tight.

The feet are what joins the rider with his mountainboard. This doesn’t mean, in my opinion, that you have to go out and break the bank in order to take care of your feet. Perhaps the day will come when a “Mountainboarding Shoe” will be on the market. On that day, I don’t know if I would run to buy a pair as it really doesn’t take much to find footwear that works.

Send in a photo to Editor@Mountainboard.net, and let the rest of us see what kind of shoes you rock when you shred your gnar. If I get enough photos sent in we can post them on a future post. Why would I want to post a bunch of photos of feet? No reason whatsoever aside from it being funny. So tell all your friends to send there feet pics to Mountainboard.net so they can be a part of a completely pointless shoe gallery.

Here’s what Andrew Sanders perfers:
“Here is what I ride in, a pair of Nike Zooms, white leather, red shiny. They offer good ankle support, and are the perfect size for a good firm fit in the bindings. Also, the basketball style soles offer a great grip on the deck. I haven’t tried any other basketball shoes, but because they offer similar needs to what a mount boarder may desire, I think it may be worth looking into.”



Here’s what Dan Wilson (of Remolition) perfers:
I used to ride in old leather Saucony Jazz trainers till they let mud in and fell apart so invested in my Vans ico snowskate trainers.. They totally rock with high top, good grip, toughened sides, lace protection ( perfect for my f3 bindings) and an interior gaiter with drawstring to stop mud/dirt getting in! and totally waterproof. They embody Radness. With added odour eaters they don’t even stink either Wholly recommended and way cooler than anything else designed for fashion, basketball etc!

Here’s what Sean Marshall perfers:
Oh man! Nothing helps me rock the ride more than lacing up my US Issued Marine boots. My buddy (X-Marine) gave me a pair of these hardcore kicks. There’s just something about having your ankles laced up tight in some ultra-tuff boots that makes you feel invincible. Speed wobbles? What speed wobbles!

A cold tear streams from the corner of your eye as you continue to gain speed. The rumble of your wheels over the dirt path below sends a surge of adrenaline through your body. You crouch low as you feel the board begin to wobble from the speed.

Then it happens. The board wobbles to the right, or maybe to the left. You panic. The edge of your wheel catches and throws you into a violent tumble.

Next thing you know, your laying on the ground watching the dust settle and making sure your toes still wiggle. You have only two things on your mind. First, you’re wonder if anyone got your near-death experience on film; and second, you’re hoping your protective gear did its job.

Basic mountainboarding protective gear consists of a helmet, knee and elbow pads, wrist guards, and gloves. While there are other items that can be added to the list, these are the ones that you shouldn’t ride without. These basic peices of gear can help prevent injury so that you can keep riding.

Here’s a few things to think about when picking out your gear:

HELMET- The helmet is the most essential piece of protective gear you can own. Some riders go with the basic skate-style, while others prefer a bmx-style which covers the face as well.

Your helmet should fit comfortably and securely. It should not be able to slide around. Every person’s head is different; no one helmet is right for everyone. With that in mind, it’s best to try a few on before buying. If you can’t get a secure fit at the store, than you wont have it when you’re riding.

KNEE AND ELBOW PADS- These pads also need to fit securely and comfortably. Next in priority is breathability.

The pads should stay in place no matter how you move. Some have internal molded cups that prevent slipping. The straps also effect the fit as well as comfort. You should make sure the straps don’t cut into you if your wearing them over bare skin. A lot of styles have a sleeve built in that not only helps to fix this problem but works to keep the pads in place as well.

WRIST GUARDS- With wrist guards you almost have to try them on. When you do, make sure your wrist is supported enough that it isn’t allowed to bend beyond 45 degrees. You want guards that have a splint on both sides. Those splints should fit to the natural contours of your hand and should have as few pressure points as possible.

GLOVES- Gloves are easy. You’re simply looking for comfort and breathability. Then, depending on the terrain you ride, you may need to sacrifice some breathablility for durability.

Gloves give you a nice sense of confidence and allow you to touch the ground, if necessary, without tearing the skin off your fingers or catching a handful of thorns.

Protective gear is very important to the sport of mountainboarding. Not only does it help to prevent injury, but it allows us, as riders, to continue to evolve. We are able to break barriers instead of bones, and write new chapters in the history of mountainboarding.

Any mountainboarder who has done any riding has felt the terrible wrath of speed wobbles. What seemed like a smooth, controlled ride suddenly turns into a violent struggle for balance. The board takes on a mind of its own as it darts from right to left. The trucks become extremely sensitive to the slightest movement or the smallest rock. You become a ticking time bomb, and more often than not, you lose.

A physics lesson is not necessary as I’m sure we can all agree that speed wobbles are, as the name suggests, caused by speed. Both body weight and the speed in which you ride (either due to the steepness of the hill or the terrain you’re on), are part of the equation that causes the wobbles. With speed being a good friend to many a mountainboarder, experience and technology has brought us ways to prevent the ugly side of speed from showing its face.

Your board has a few features that help to defend against this:

First, you can always lower your tire pressure to prevent gaining too much speed, but then you’re not living so let’s move on.

Second, most trucks are equipped with a hex bolt directly over the springs which can be adjusted. This either compresses or decompresses your springs, depending on which way you turn it. The more compressed your springs, the stiffer the ride, and the faster you can ride without speed wobbles.

The last piece of technology available is what’s called egg shocks, or torsion cubes depending on who makes your trucks. These are placed inside your springs (or in the middle of your trucks if you’re using torsion cubes) and further stiffens the compression. There are different levels of stiffness available so that you can tailor to your specific needs.

Of course, even after proper adjustments have been made, we sometimes find ourselves reaching a speed that is just a little faster than what we prepared for. There’s a few things we can do once the wobbling begins. Most importantly, focus and stay calm. Your goal is to slow your board down gradually. Keep in mind that the response time of your board is now much quicker. You will need to fight to maintain your balance and unless you want to wreck, the best way to stay on your board is to mentally eliminate the option of wrecking. Once you consider the option it’s over. Mountainboarding is full of mind games, isn’t it great.

Like a gymnast on a balance beam you scream down the narrow single-track.  Thick brush and small trees line the sides of your pathway of fate.  You struggle to maintain your balance as you reach a near uncontrollable speed.  Your emotions twitching from pure exhilaration to complete panic and fear.

If you’ve ever experienced mountainboarding a single-track you know that there is only so much to do to control your ride.  As soon as you drop in you are at the mercy of the track.  If it drops steep, so do you.  If it curves hard to the left, then you better do the same.  If a boulder or a log covers a portion of the track then you better figure something out quick.

There is little that can be offered in terms of advise to those mountainboarding single-tracks.  Brakes are obviously helpful, but if you are looking to actually “ride” the track, then they’re out of the question.  This lack of options is what attracts many of the riders of the forbidden single-track. 

Speed management is one of the biggest obstacles you’ll face.   The option to carve is out the window on most single-tracks, but depending on your surrounding terrain you might be able to use it.  If the track is carved into the ground, you might be able to rub the edges to slow your descent.  Brush or tall grass can be used to slow yourself by simply running your arms through it to provide drag.  Watch out for stationary objects if you try this; you don’t want to wrap your arm around a tree.

If after looking at the severe lack of options you still decide to mountainboard a single-track, then buckle your helmet and get ready for a rush. Stay focused or you’ll lose your balance and tweak out.  Mountainboarding is always full of split-second decisions, single-tracks just make it a smaller split-second. Keep your eye on that track, it’s the key to your fate- good or bad.