Tag Archive | "how to mountainboard"

Tags: ,

Basic First Aid for Mountainboarders- part 2 of 3

Posted on 07 May 2008 by ryan

Last week we talked about fractures, this week we will discuss one of the most common injuries in the sport of mountainboarding, “road rash.” At first it doesn’t seem too bad, it gives you something to show off- a nice visual aid to go with your post-ride story. Then it starts to get miserable. Scabs, restless nights, ooze, and a long healing process.

So what do you do? How do you best treat it for the quickest recovery?

Before you can do anything, you need to equip yourself (preferably before the you wreck):

  • Bottle of water

  • Wash cloth

  • A mild antibacterial liquid soap

  • Antibiotic Ointment (e.g. Neosporin)

  • Non-stick gauze pads

  • Self adhering gauze wrap

The first thing you want to do after the wreck is inspect the injury. There are different types of road rash, some more serious than others. If you’ve completely peeled away the skin layer and you feel like you’re in science class when you look at it, then you probably need professional medical attention. The skin can’t heal if too much of the underneath stuff is messed up, or missing.

On the other hand, sometimes road rash effects only a very thin layer of the surface of the skin. These types need hardly any attention at all. Just keep them clean and dry and they heal themselves.

The road rash we will discuss is the kind that fall between the two we just mentioned. These are the kind that sting, throb, and ooze. The following steps are for this kind of injury:

  1. Clean the area. If nothing else is done at the crash site, you should at least clean the area. This is done with water, a wash cloth, and mild antibiotic liquid soap (most sporting goods stores sell small empty containers that can easily be filled with soap and packed away). Avoid using hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or anything like that as they’ve been found to mess with the healing process. Scrubbing too hard will also make things worse. If you’re not able to clean away dirt and debris with gentle washing, you can soak the area until it is soft enough to work with.

  2. Once clean, pat the area dry.

  3. Apply antibiotic ointment (e.g. Neosporin).

  4. Cover the area with a non-stick gauze pad. If you’re gauze pad is not a non-stick type, you’ll regret it later.

  5. With a self adhering gauze, wrap the area (some areas are not able to hold a wrap, like the back for example. The non-stick gauze pad will have to do for these areas). The wrap will help to secure and protect the gauze pad so it can do its job.

A few last words…

The road rash is an injury that requires daily maintenance. Your goal is to keep the wound moist, covered, and clean. Only the lightest of skin abrasions should be left to scab and “heal on their own.” When they are deeper, we want to avoid the scabbing process. Scabs tend to crack and they don’t allow enough oxygen to pass through for proper healing.

Keeping the area moist helps to prevent the scabbing process. Each day you need to remove the dressing, clean the area with soap and water, and remove any slimy film (the beginning of scab formation). Then apply the antibiotic ointment (e.g. Neosporin) and a new dressing as you did before. Within a week or two you should start seeing a healthy pink color and the oozing should be done. After this point, covering becomes optional.

So now that you’re a pro at treating road rash, go out and tear up the hill side. If you’re lucky you’ll get to practice what you’ve learned.

 

Comments (2)

Tags: ,

Post-Ride Maintenance

Posted on 01 May 2008 by ryan

one.jpgMountainboards take quite a beating and keep rolling. After a long day of riding, it’s not unusual for your board to be jammed with dirt, mud, grass, and whatever else you thrashed that day. Post-ride maintenance is an important habit to develop. Not only does it keep your board running smoother for longer, it also helps to prevent problems on the mountain when you might not be prepared to deal with it.

The level of maintenance you do depends on many factors: how hard you rode, what you rode on, if water was involved, if you live in a dry or wet place, and many more. I do most of my riding in coastal areas, so I have to deal with rust issues more than some riders. Typically I do the post-ride maintenance described below after each day of riding, then once a month or sometimes every other month, I’ll do some deeper mountainboard maintenance work.

The following maintenance steps are for an MBS mountainboard. Some differences might exist for other types of mountainboards.

one.jpg1. First thing I do after inspecting my mountianboard for any obvious damage is assemble my tools: a rag, a toothbrush of some sort, tool (what ever you need to remove your wheels, and tighten the hardware on your trucks and bindings), water, and or Tri-Flow, or anything that claims to penetrate, clean, fight rust, and lubricate.

2. Remove wheels.three.jpg

3. Wipe wheel bearing with rag and brush edges with toothbrush.

4. Squirt a small amount of WD-40 on a rag and wipe wheel bearing, break up any rust with toothbrush, then dry with rag.

5. Squirt with WD-40 each of the hub screws, then dry with rag.

6. Squirt with WD-40 each of the axle nuts, then dry with rag.five.jpg

7. Set wheels aside.

8. Clean axles, using rag and WD-40, then dry with rag.

9. Wipe off any dirt from kingpin, kingpin nut, and kingpin bearings (both sides of truck), the same way you did for the wheel bearings.

10. Squirt each of these parts with WD-40 including the space between the metal and the plastic parts of the truck, then dry with rag.six.jpg

11. If mountainboard has been squeaking a lot, squirt a small amount of WD-40 between the trucks and the deck. This sometimes does the trick.

12. Pour water on the rag and wipe clean the deck, then dry. This isn’t necessary but I do it as a way of bonding with my mountainboard. Take care of your board and it’ll take care of you.

13. Put wheels back on.

14. Tighten all hardware on bindings, and trucks.

Regular maintenance will keep your board happy. Don’t dread it. It’s a time to bond with your mountainboard and reflect on the ride.

Comments (4)

Tags:

Patch That Flat

Posted on 15 April 2008 by ryan

Getting tossed off your mountain board into a cactus or sticker bush is rarely a positive experience. Even worse, however, is when your board suffers cactus5.jpgsimilar injuries. All it takes is one tiny little thorn to puncture your tube and your ride is over. Patch kits are lifesavers on days like this.

Most patch kits are very small, making them extremely convenient to carry. Unless you enjoy walking down what you could be riding, then keep a kit in your pack or your pocket; it could save your ride.

There’s two different types of kits, with and without glue. Either one will work although the glue-less is more simple and therefore better for those of us who’ve cracked more than our share of helmets. All kits include patches, a scuffer of some sort, and glue (if required).

Here’s the basic steps:

1. Remove the tube.

2. Run your fingers through the inside of the tube to assure that it’s free of stickers or thorns.

3. Fill the tube with air and find all the holes (it helps if you can mark them somehow). Also, finding the holes is easier if you submerge the tube in water (if its available) and watch for bubbles.

4. Clean the area of each hole with water, spit, or whatever you have to make a clean surface.

5. Use the scuffer to scratch the area where the patch will be placed. This will help the patch stick better.

6. If your using a kit with glue, place a small amount of glue on THE TUBE (not the patch) and smear it evenly over the area with your finger. Now let it dry until it’s tacky- this is important, the patch will not stick well if the glue is wet.

7. Now your ready for the patch, each kit is different but most have a plastic piece that will need to be removed. Glue-less patches always have a plastic piece attached to the sticky side.

8. Carefully place the patch over the hole. Apply pressure to the center of the patch first, then smooth out the rest from the inside out to prevent air bubbles.

Once all holes have been patched correctly, the tube should hold air again and you can continue riding. No one wants to make the disgraceful walk downhill when they could be riding.

For more tips on preventing flats, check out “Bullet-proof Tubes”

Comments (0)

Tags:

Your First Board

Posted on 02 April 2008 by ryan

The addiction has begun. For one reason or another, you have stumbled upon the sport of mountainboarding and you’re hooked. The very smell of dirt fills you with excitement. You find yourself spotting potential riding spots everywhere you go. Even your daydreams send an anxious dose of adrenaline through your body. You want to ride. Your have to ride. But you still need a board.

When looking for your first board there are two main determining factors. Your weight and your riding style. Although there are other factors, such as brand and price, these have more to do with personal preference or what’s in your wallet.

Weight is easy. Are you a light or heavy rider? If you’re a lighter rider, you’ll need a softer deck. If you’re a heavy rider, you’ll need a stiffer deck. Most board companies provide specific information on which board is right for you according to your weight. If you ride a board that is too soft or too stiff, you’ll find you either bottom out all the time or you can’t get the board to respond or “snap.”

Riding style is the next factor. There are four main styles: freestyle, freeride, boardercross, and kite. Although any mountainboard can be used for any style, the more serious you are about a specific style, the more you will want the right tool for the job.

Freestyle is all about getting air and doing tricks. For this you will want a smaller, lighter board. This doesn’t mean you get a board made for a lighter rider. Boards are made light by the materials used for the deck, trucks, and even the hubs and tires. Your board stiffness, depending on how much air you are going for, will need to be high in order to support your landings without bottoming out. Too stiff, however, will take away from the pop you need to leave the ground.

Freeride is about riding the whole mountain, and attacking various terrain. Boards for this style have to be tough and heavy. The deck should be stiff enough to support cliff drops and extreme terrain. Some companies make 9 inch wheels for freeriders. Bigger wheels provides more clearance which means you keep riding instead of getting tossed. Some boards include a handbrake that allows for steeper rides or single tracks (especially beneficial to the beginner).

Boardercross requires a light and very maneuverable ride. Pay special attention to deck stiffness. Your board needs to be able to respond exactly when you need it to. This will depend on your weight and how aggressively you ride. The harder you ride, the stiffer your deck should be.

The last style is kite. If you plan to ride the winds, you will need a light board with a soft deck. You’ll never leave the ground if your board weighs too much. Every ounce you can shave off counts.

By considering both weight and riding style, you’ll be able to get a board that will let you ride how and what you want. As was mentioned before, most companies make an effort to point out which board you need according to these factors. That way you can find what you need to feed your new addiction. Good luck.

Comments (4)

Tags:

Lessons Learned From Mountain Biking

Posted on 28 March 2008 by admin

I was out on my board a few weeks ago and the day was ruined by two punctures in quick succession. I dragged my miserable self home and dumped my kit in the garage. I began to dig out my puncture repair kit when I came across a product which I use on my mountain bike and the light went on in my head. I could have used this on my board and saved myself a bag load of unhappiness.

The product is tire slime. It’s a green goo which carries thousands of small length of fibre about 1cm long. The idea is, when you get puncture, the air pressure of the tyre pushes the fibres and goo into the hole blocking it and stopping the puncture.

How to use it; you will need to check the configuration of your board’s inner tube, if like mine it has a removable valve you are in luck. Take out the valve and squirt in the gloop, remembering to remove all traces from the valve itself. Put the valve back in and re-inflate to your desired pressure.

Fingers crossed I have not had any problems since. Give it a go.

Comments (3)

Advertise Here
Advertise Here